The samples below were shot with the strobe just out of frame and about 8 inches from the subject (the mug). Snoots, Grids and Barn Doors will do the job and the tighter the beam of light, the better. The way to create the 'hardest light' is to work with the light as close to the subject as possible, thus creating the smallest light source possible, and to narrow or collimate the light with little to no diffusion. Others have already given the solution but I'll demonstrate. Sometimes it helps to see these things to understand how they work. This is also visible in my example above. The further you go from the mug, the more diffused the light becomes, and the softer the shadow and transfer from shadow to diffuse. To exaggerate the point, you would have the crispest and tightest shadow if you are directly overhead and just off center enough to create a shadow but keeping it close to the mug. If you want the least falloff and not as much diffusion at the far edge of the shadow then you need to change the angle and create a shorter shadow with a different angle of incidence on the subject. You're just seeing falloff and the properties of light at work. I do not think the ambient light plays any role here.īut no matter how far or close I move the light, the shadow is fuzzy on edges, especially on the furthest part of the shadow. I am using adorama's budget monolight as the only source, in almost completely dark room I'd like to have sharp crisp shadow on the table,

Photo reflector large edge